China Journal 6/2/06

Woke before the others. Wrote in my journal and after a light breakfast we left the apartment to spend the day at Xiao Yee's apartment. We were greeted at the door by a tiny girl who is Xiao Yun and Da Ping's daughter. I became confused and thought she was Xiao Yee's daughter. Took awhile to wade through all the Chinese but by mid morning I realized my mistake. It was consoling to think that everybody else was confused by my English too! The girl probably doesn't weigh 90 lbs.. She looks much like her father and has a shy way of bringing her hand to her mouth when she laughs. She and Nathan were playmates as kids. She is a college student now studying "instruction"- working hard on her English.
It was a long, long day. I was tired trying to stay awake though all the Chinese conversation. I did enjoy watching Xiao Yee prepare our meals rice, fresh vegetables from the nearby market, a bit of pork. She made me soy milk warmed with sugar for breakfast. She and Xiao Jing did my laundry. Michael tells me that the last time he was here it was all done by hand. Now Xiao Yee has an electric wash machine. Much smaller than any I've seen. We put all my laundry in there and I thought a dryer must be near by . Later I mentioned the laundry and realized the girls had forgotten about it. They rushed it downstairs in their arms and hung it outside to dry. It was 8 pm when they brought it back to me almost dry. During dinner I glanced at my watch. 9 pm!
Shar Chen had put up the ironing board for me. Xiao Jing had offered to iron the slacks but I insisted on doing it. Finally I had something to do! After hours of sitting and fielding questions about my reactions to what I'd seen and experienced coming to China.
Renee, Xiao Ping's daughter, had taken quite an interest in me and sat nearby as I ironed all my slacks. She told me that she does her own ironing. She asked questions about my childhood and I having been raised one of 4 siblings realized how hard it must be to be an only child. X had told me that parents in "higher levels of government
are allowed to have more than one child.
During the day Xiao Jing's brother rushes in from a lunch meeting to explain to us his plans for our week long trip to the minority countries He opens a map on the coffee table (all in
Chinese of course) showing our route. Michael says this will be an excursion impossible for other tourists. "Back door" agreements among those in high government positions are what make such trips possible. Xiao Jing's brother is in a branch of security that even she doesn't fully understand. He explains that there will be road tolls and "certain fees" that we will have to pay. Michael later says this will put a crunch on our finances. I wish I'd brought more money. Michael again curses himself that he's an unpaid husband and a lackey for the University of the Pacific. The upshot is that Xiao Jing and Michael feel compelled to accept the invitation to take the trip and we will wait for Nathan's return next week to leave.
It is 10 pm when Xiao Yun, Xiao Jing and I are discussing HIV at the dinner table. She says that her hospital is working with a hospital in Boston to collaborate on installing a full service HIV/pediatric department. I'm impressed. It occurs to me that in spite of the Cultural Revolution this family was able to survive and build on their ancestors' plan for them and for China.
10:30. We leave. Renee and her mom leave for home. We three and Xiao Yee start the walk back to our apartment. Michael carries his back pack full of the laundry (his dirty, mine clean). I carry my newly ironed slacks . Xiao Jing insists that I stop to rest at each of the eight flights of stairs. They again remind me of the elevation here. We have been together for 12 hours now. Although Michael has reminded me to "get used to" the Chinese concept of hospitality I am desperate for my room and "a little space". I am also aware that Xiao Yee must also be anxious for some time to herself. We sit together on the couch and I ask about her Qi Gong practice. "17 years", she says. I mention how interesting that one sister practices Chinese medicine and the other practices Western medicine. She smiles at me. She also admits she's not been sleeping well. She is menopausal.
To bed finally around midnight.

1. Writing in my journal first thing. Xiao Jing took this pic.
2,3. Xiao Yee reciting the calligrapher's scroll.
4. Xiao Yee & Xiao Jing reading the calligrapher's scroll of Mao Tse Tung's poem.
5. Renee and me doing the ironing.
6. Doing the laundry, a family affair.6. Xiao Jing and Nathan hanging the laundry. Pretty environmentally conscientious. Definitely country wide. Just look up. There's laundry hanging in many surprising places!

7. The ladder is very narrow. It leads to the roof of a building. Your feet must be placed sideways. It's not for the timid!
8. Xiao Yee gracefully descending.

China Journal 6/1/06

Awake at 6am. Did my core exercises. Took my vitamins and bee pollen after showering. Packed and met Michael and Xiao Jing for breakfast on the street. To the bazaar. Looking for soft soy milk. Michael asked a vendor whose response was, "Do you see any"? Michael says, "Again rebuffed as a tourist!" We turned a corner and happened upon a vendor making soft tofu in broth topped with crushed chili pepper, minced cucumber, vinegar, soy sauce, sesame oil and soy beans served in a bowl and eaten with a small metal spoon. So good!
We had a conversation with an old lady in Mao dress and her 83 year old husband. She was a graduate of Beijing University (78 years old). Michael said, "Having that kind of breakfast with such a couple was the "dream" breakfast. (No, I didn't take a picture.)
We bought a steam bun and a thick crepe-like roll to save for lunch, returned to our room for tea and dry fruit. We enjoyed dates which had been soaked in wine and honey. The biggest, most delicious dates we'd ever had. Xiao Jing shared her green tea leaves that she'd bought at the tea shop.
We then packed, checked out, and left to carry (drag) our bags to the shuttle. Xiao Jing very kind and thoughtful to me throughout.
The flight went well. Changed planes once with three hours to wait between. They were unable to accommodate transferring our luggage so we had that task. Plenty of time though. Two things are improvements in the American way. The snacks are 6 inch packages of mild cookies on the three hour flight and the luggage carts are free.
We were greeted at Yunan Airport in Kunming by Xiao Jing's sister Xiao Yun and her husband Da Ping. Much excitement. Her sister is so happy and smiling.
We traveled in two cars to Xiao Jing's younger sister Xiao Yee's apartment, drove through the "gate" and parked in what we feared would be another jammed parking lot. Our bags were brought up the flights of stairs to the fourth floor and goodbyes were made. Xiao Yee's lover has created a Japanese style hide-away implementing Xiao Yee's design. It is very lovely. There are a mix of plants in surprising places, cases of books. Three bedrooms have been redesigned as room for other uses.
We enjoyed sliced guava and crackers, and hot water. It was late when we took clean clothes from our luggage and brought our necessities to the apartment that's been rented for our use for this month. (3000 yuan). It is on the eighth floor of a building about six blocks walk away through piles of refuse strewn along street light areas. It will be collected each morning, it seems the rats are also on a tight schedule here!
The elevation is at about 5,000feet here so I ran out of steam 2/3 of the way up the darkened staircase. The others were carrying their things but slowed considerably as they climbed higher. Xiao Jing notes the smell as we explore the lovely apartment. It is one of cabbage and dampness. It's humid in the area. I believe we'll get used to it. We are told that Xiao Yun (the director of the hospital here) scrubbed this apartment on her hands and knees! Fresh flowers in lovely large vases have been placed for Xiao Jing's enjoyment. I have my own room! There's lots of light through large wide windows.
The plane tickets to Kunming.

China Journal 5/31/06

I thought we were leaving today but not till tomorrow. Good! I like this place. Breakfast around 9:30. I'd already had a few dried plums and had started my tea. The honey is from date blossoms, light and sweet. We downed a spoonful of bee pollen before we left for the Xi`an Da Ci`en Temple. In this temple all the Buddhist scrolls from India were transcribed into Chinese. There are fifty Buddhist monks living here.
There is a novel called Journey West about a Chinese Buddhist who went to India centuries ago and returned to spread Buddhism in China.
In one of the prayer areas of the temple there is a wall illustrating the history of Buddhism. It shows a sleeping empress. She wakes to realize she is pregnant. She believes she will bear a white elephant which is revered in China. After ten months she goes to her parents' home to give birth. On the way she delivers a boy who takes 7 steps with his right hand pointing to heaven and other hand pointing to earth. Each step becomes a lotus blossom. The child is illuminated with an unusual light.
We did not climb the tower here. We rested in a lovely park. Michael had a long discussion with a Buddhist monk while Xiao Jing and I enjoyed sitting in the shade.
Back to our rooms for a nap.
Dinner at eight and a wander through the bazaar. At 9 we stumbled upon the Islam Center and observed evening prayer here by watching through a courtyard. A first for Xiao Jing. I took a couple pictures.
It was too late to catch the telescope guy in the park so we headed to our rooms for hot water and honey. Then to bed.
1. Admission ticket to the temple
2. A marker at the temple walkway.